Jancis Robinson. Master of Wine (England)
“STARS OR TOMORROW?”
Published on her website and in the Financial Times (June, 2020)
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the most followed wine journalist in the world. Last June 2020, she dedicated an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart. “Wines can go from bargain to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines ”. Thus she began her article Jancis Robinson, published in the Financial Times weekend, in June 2020, where she indicates the possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place, she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
The article begins by recalling her trips to Bordeaux in the 90s discovering wines like Le Pin or the first time he tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 70s. Wines that were affordable at that time and that in a few years became inaccessible for the majority.
And then he indicates: “I would like to name the Andalusian wines of Muchada-Léclapart to begin with, appropriate enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single superior sherry vineyard, make the most exceptional aperitifs, as well as having an adequate alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) to drink with food ”.
We share her tasting notes:
Very slightly cloudy (I was urged to stand the bottles upright for two weeks before opening) and really exciting. Yeasty, bready (aromas I may be misdescribing because of associations with Fino and Manzanilla) and chock-full of intense grassy fruit. Long grip on the palate. Very pure and pungent but not exaggerated. Much more refreshing acidity than I have encountered before in unfortified wines from sherry country. There’s just a hint of Manzanilla but also of cooking apples and pure refreshment. Very impressive. I’m not sure about the ageing potential since this is such a new style so am erring on the side of caution. 17/20 points
Cloudy dark copper colour like all their wines. Tangy marmalade flavours with real bite. Fresh and honeyed. A bit more extreme than Lumière with a bit of orange-peel astringency on the end but nicely balanced. Just a rather sudden end. 16.5/20 points
Really pungent, urgent nose. Very much more of an unfortified, unadorned white varietal wine than the 2018 Lumière. Less complex. Good green-fruited edge to this but it’s fairly simple and straightforward, even if not exactly like anything else. Some density even if the flavours are simpler than the 2018 Lumière. Refreshing, with more substance and length than most tank-aged whites. Bone dry. 16/20 points