“STARS OR TOMORROW?” Published on JancisRobinson.com and in the Financial Times (June, 2020).
Jancis Robinson is perhaps the world's most widely followed wine journalist. Last June 2020, she devoted an article to the cult wines of the future, in which she placed Muchada-Léclapart: “Wines can go from bargains to extravagance remarkably quickly. I put my head in the past and suggest some future cult wines”. So began Jancis Robinson's article, published in the Financial Times weekend, June 2020, in which she indicated possible cult wines for the coming years. And in the first place she nominated Muchada-Léclapart, valuing its commitment to the soul of the Jerez area.
The article begins by recalling his trips to Bordeaux in the 1990s discovering wines such as Le Pin or the first time he tasted Sassicaia from Tuscany in the 1970s. Wines that at that time were affordable and that in a few years became inaccessible to most people.
He goes on to say: “I would like to name Muchada-Léclapart's Andalusian wines to begin with, appropriately enough because their wines, effectively unfortified white wines from a single vineyard of superior sherry, make the most exceptional aperitifs, while having a suitable alcoholic strength (only 12.5% alcohol) for drinking with food”.
Full article: Stars of tomorrow ? Jancis Robinson
We share their tasting notes:
Lumière 2018: “Very slightly cloudy (I was asked to keep the bottles upright for two weeks before opening) and really exciting. Yeasty, bready (aromas I can misdescribe due to associations with Fino and Manzanilla) and full of intense herbaceous fruit. Long grip on the palate. Very pure and spicy but not overdone. Much more refreshing acidity than I have encountered before in unfortified wines from sherry country. Just a touch of manzanilla, but also cooking apples and pure refreshment. Very impressive. I'm not sure about the ageing potential, as this is such a new style, so I err on the side of caution. 17/20 points”
Élixir 2017: “They're not very good at indicating the vintage on the label, but I guess it's 2017.Dark coppery cloudy colour like all their wines. Spicy jammy flavours with a royal touch. Fresh and honeyed. A little more extreme than Lumière with a little orange peel astringency on the finish but well balanced. Just a rather sudden finish. 16,5 / 20 points”
Univers 2017: “Really spicy and urgent nose. Much more of an unfortified, unadorned white varietal wine than the 2018 Lumière. Less complex. Good green fruit edge to this, but it's quite simple and straightforward, even if it's not exactly like anything else. Some density, even if the flavours are simpler than the 2018 Lumière. Refreshing, with more substance and length than most tank-aged whites. Bone dry. 16/20 points.”
